Last Updated: 3/11/2010 8:42:36 PM
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Louis Vuitton's Silver Screen Femininity

" Doris Day , Brigitte Bardot , Sophia Loren , and I could mention others," Jacobs explained, referring to his influences, in the midst of the maelstrom that is the post-show backstage of Vuitton, where dozens of camera crews jostle for an interview.

Adding to the moment, the house hired a slew of veteran models to grace this show - from Victoria's Secret model Adriana Lima of Brazil and French model-turned-actress Laetitia Casta to former Australian supermodel Elle MacPherson of Australia .

What worked best was a series of remarkable skirts in three different cuts, the largest a dimple A-line, most brilliantly in hard leather. "We wanted from dowdy to sexy in the skirts and we achieved that," said Jacobs.

Entitled, " And God Created Woman ," after the 1956 film of the same name and backed up by the movie's sound track, the show opened with a super décolleté black pinstripe skirt and corset.

The designer also sent out lots of curvy, big-button jackets cut with peplum hems that were the epitome of feminine gentility, wide A-line coats in boucle wool and some very charming printed floral organza dresses.

To his credit, Jacobs kept Vuitton miles apart from the two dominant trends in Paris this weekend, chic minimalist sportswear and theatrical nomadic fashion. Yet, this paean to virtue and refinement, though highly referenced in the past, felt agreeably fresh.

Nearly ever model wore leather gloves, and most of them carried bags, specifically the Speedy, a 1930s creation which Jacobs revamped with new flap and top handle, which worked particularly well with a doctor's briefcase.

"Feminine heroines felt right for now. I don't worry about why it feels right, it just does. I am never afraid," said Jacobs, as he spun to take yet another interview.